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Can you train your dog's emotions? The truth behind "Good food, Good mood"

Training your dog's emotions

We all know that dogs can be trained to perform cute and practical behaviors on cue, but did you know that you can also "train" your dog's emotions


There's truth behind one of our favorite phrases - "good food, good mood" - that has been well-established by the research of animal behaviorists and the experience of everyday trainers. You have probably heard that dogs "learn through association," and this principle of learning theory, known formally as classical conditioning, is perhaps the most powerful tool in a dog lover's box for helping their dog overcome fear or other unpleasant emotions and their associated behaviors. This is true especially in cases that are misinterpreted as unfriendly/aggressive behavior.


Just as Pavlov's dogs began to experience the same joyful brain chemistry and physiological expressions of happiness when they heard their dinner bell ringing even long before the food actually arrived, we can condition dogs to feel great about stimuli that formerly had negative or no meaning to them. There is no natural reason a dog should salivate and dance with happiness at the ring of a bell, but since the bell was reliably paired with food, the noise of the bell itself began to cause these reactions. (This is why classical conditioning is also known as Pavlovian conditioning.) Although it may sound foreign when viewed in relation to a classic science experiment, we have actually all been classically conditioned without even knowing it. For example, although we would be indifferent to burning wax by nature - or perhaps even a little uncomfortable since fire can hurt - it's the consistent pairing of candles with relaxation that provokes the sense of serenity many people experience when they enter a room where one is lit. The same goes for certain combinations of rhythms and notes in music: perhaps the JAWS theme gets your heart racing while Bach's Cello Suite No. 1 lulls you to sleep, but if you had not been conditioned that way, those tunes would just be noise with no deeper impact on your emotions and behavior.


It's pretty clear in the below photographs that Piper the Deutsch Drahthaar loves the boat and feels great about its rocking motions, noisy motor, and gusting wind. Jinbei the miniature poodle, however, needed more than a couple of treats on a few boat trips before he was able to come out of his hiding spot... 


The principles of classical conditioning

When we use good food according to the principles of classical conditioning, we can condition our dogs to respond joyfully to - or,  at a minimum, feel more comfortable with - anything or anyone they encounter. One principle that we cannot forget is to pair something the dog REALLY loves with the thing we want the dog to learn to like. Think of it as a transfer of value: the more valuable positive stimulus you use, the more positive effect you'll have. Of course, Gretchen's currency of choice is naturally meaty and flavorful Love the Dog Treats - perhaps you can see it in her pleading face. We find that most dogs respond very well to Love The Dog treats for this training, and they are easy to break up into small pieces perfect for classical conditioning work.


So put aside your kibble and milk bones, grab a bag of Love The Dog treats, and help your dog feel better about everything in his life starting today. And the more you follow the below additional principles, the more success you'll have, so always remember:


(1) Dogs cannot learn when they are in a panicked or traumatized state. Actually, the limbic system we share with dogs literally prevents us humans from doing so, as well. If your dog is so scared of something that he/she is already experiencing the very feelings and rehearsing the very behavior you're trying to heal, decrease the intensity of the scary thing and begin to pair it with your treats at a tolerable level. It's safest to start from a place where your dog is noticing, but not reacting to, the scary stimulus. This is usually done by increasing distance to start and then gradually increasing proximity as the dog demonstrates he or she is now happy to encounter the formerly scary thing. We can also lower intensity on other parameters depending on the scary stimulus. These include loudness, roughness, and duration among others. 


(Technical Tip: every time you overestimate your dog's new-found appreciation for the "bad" stimulus and push them to a point where they feel and act precisely the way you're trying to train them not too, you have set yourself back. Avoid this at all cost by proceeding with extreme patience!) You can see below how far rescue puppy Jax needed to be away from other dogs before he could begin changing the way he felt about their proximity. You can also see his graduation photos from doggy day care with his first friends!


(2) ALWAYS pair "bad" stimuli with your highest value reward. Every time we fail to provide treats in the presence of the stimuli our dog identifies as "bad" things, we weaken the positive association we're trying to create. This lowers the efficacy of our training and, ultimately, the quality of our end result. So if your dog is fearful of other dogs but encounters them daily on walks, make sure to keep a pocket-sized plastic bag of treats on hand to grab as you head out the door so that you never forget! Similarly, save your highest value treats for classical conditioning.